The buzz: When Changwon opened by MRT Petchaburi in 2015, its Korean-Mexican fusion food and Thai craft beer were an instant hit. Owner Taeyoung “Ted” Ahn became something of an anchor for regulars, too. While the concept worked, Ahn realized it could be a flash in the pan. A few years ago, he pivoted to a more approachable focus: chimaek, the holy matrimony of fried chicken and beer so popular in South Korea. Now, Ahn has his sights set on building a chimaek empire. For his new Changwon branch in Sathorn, he’s teamed up with Mash founder Kiattisak “Sam” Watsuksanti and restaurateur Boram Kim. The trio hopes it’s the first of many more Changwon branches to come. 

 

The vibe: Changwon occupies a corner spot behind the AIA Tower, its coal-black and canary-yellow insignia glowing like a beacon for the salaried workers inside one of the CBD’s shiniest skyscrapers. The space used to house a Japanese restaurant. On the ground level, you wouldn’t know it. You enter by the bar and a quiet dining area off to the right framed by tall glass windows. In the back, low tables sit under warm lights—the perfect place for casual drinks. You’ll also notice the showpiece here: a hand-painted mural of Kim Jong Un toasting you with a frosty beer, a symbol of Ahn’s cheeky humor rather than his deference to the DPRK dictator. On the second level, there are a few small tables primed for groups, and in the corner, a mural of Ahn, dressed up like Colonel Sanders, holding a bucket of Changwon chicken. There are no frills but plenty of post-work buzz and a welcome jolt of energy coursing through the place.

 

The food: There are plenty of excellent bar snacks and fusion bites—think juicy mandu (dumplings; B180 for eight), homemade kimchi (B20), and pickled raw squid seasoned with gochujang (B80)—but you definitely want the chicken. You can get it for one, two, or four, and in every classic cut or style you prefer: wings, thighs, and even boneless options (from B180 for six wings to B520 for a party set for four). The original recipe and soy garlic flavors are downright addictive. If you’re more sadistic, try the angry chicken, a spicy hit guaranteed to make your eyes well up. If you love the kimchi, you can buy jars of it to take home, too.

 

The drinks: As Ahn will tell you—perhaps half-seriously—chimaek is basically South Korea’s national dish. It follows that beer is the preferred choice here. There are 10 different kinds on tap, ranging from local craft (Mahanakhon’s 5.5% guava hazy pale ale; B200/350ml) to foreign-made imports (Danish brand Gamma’s 9.3% Encrypted Dimensions double IPA; B300/350ml). And you’ll always have the option of tried-and-true Singha, which sets you back just B100 for a glass. In a city where beer seems to get pricier by the day, the affordability stands out. Stay tuned, too. Ahn says there will soon be red and white wine on draft, and if plans to open for lunch materialize, maybe even nitro coffee. This time next year, you might also see Changwon’s dearly missed Asoke Pale Ale and Chao Phraya Stout on draft.

  

Why we’d come back: Chimaek is the definition of soul food, and Changwon nails it. Factor in the restaurant’s uber-convenient location near BTS Saint Louis, the affordable prices, and the lively vibe, and this bears the hallmark of a Sathorn institution, just like the original has become for Asoke.