Tucked deep down a residential sub-soi of Phahon Yothin Soi 8, on the second floor of Frank and Release futsal field, it’s safe to say Yang Gao Gorn doesn’t rely on foot traffic. It takes effort to eat here, which might explain why it was pretty empty on our last visit. But this father-and-son-run place is baan-baan at its best: the beige walls, fake-wooden table tops and plain presentation can’t detract from the high-quality food.

 

Staying faithful to old family recipes, the kitchen rolls out old-school dishes like choo chee prik yuak yad sai (stuffed banana pepper stir-fried in coconut milk and curry paste, B70/pepper), which has the perfect aroma, flavor and spice, despite being slightly oily. Other dishes see traditional Thai ingredients used impeccably, like the nuea kem (salted dried beef) in the nuea kem pad kati (stir-fried salted dried beef in coconut milk, B220) or super light and crispy nuea kem yang toob tord (grilled, pounded then deep-fried salted dried beef, B180). Both dishes pack just the right amount of saltiness.

 

In fact, the food is so good it’s hard to pick a single standout. So, while the pla salid foo (deep-fried snakeskin gourami, B70/piece) is perfectly executed, the gaeng kua sapparot goong (red curry with pineapple and shrimp, B160) bursts with a wonderful smoky aroma that’s enhanced by the sweet and tangy pineapple. The kai palo (braised egg in brown soup, B60), made from the owner’s grandma’s recipe, also shines thanks to the firm duck egg permeated with flavor—the result of extensive hours of simmering. Then the yum mankaew (jicama salad, B160), a rare find which consists of shredded chicken, tiny pork cubes, chopped shrimp, jicama (Mexican potato), cucumber and crispy shallots. Every bite is crisp, complex and refreshing.

 

While there’s a small rooftop dining area offering modest neighborhood views, you don’t come here for the setting. Yang Gao Gorn serves traditional dishes done right and priced very reasonably. No corkage charge

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This review took place in October 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.