It takes a bit of courage to reach Yakiniku Fuku Ryu En, a very solid Japanese DIY barbeque place that also does shabu and teppanyaki. First, you’ll have to get past the touts and hostesses for the Japanese-only bars on Soi Thaniya, then stare down the two seven-foot tall Godzillas guarding the entrance, then specifically inform the uniformed doorman who’ll try to usher you into Matoi Sushi that you’re actually here for the yakiniku. At that point, he’ll call the elevator and send you to either the second floor (non smoking) or the third floor (smoking, with the added bonus of a teppanyaki bar and VIP rooms). You’ll then be rewarded with fresh food and superlative service. In no particular order, here’s what we love about the place. The central barbeque embedded in each table has built-in ventilation so that your hair won’t smell of charred animals for the rest of the evening. The grill was changed three times during our last tete-a-tete there. Glasses are refilled with ice and drinks without ever having to ask. Staff are confident and knowledgeable. The sauces and marinades are light and natural—none of that MSG, salt and sugar muck. The produce is invariably top-notch, whether it’s tender, marbled beef (from B240) or chunky scallops (B400). The place is always relatively quiet (dead quiet on week nights), as opposed to the cacophonous atmosphere at the soi’s street-level bars. And perhaps that’s what Fuku Ryu En is lacking despite its seemingly perfect offerings, a bit of atmosphere. The bland, sterile décor could almost work for a bank in a mall, while the VIP rooms (3/F) and well-partitioned tables mean you always feel like you’re eating alone. Nor is the kitchen staff anywhere to be seen, which feels a tad odd in a Japanese restaurant. Go there for a plate of tender beef brisket slathered in soi sauce, or even clean-tasting offal that you can cook to a lovely crisp, like beef tongue (B350) and pig’s intestines (B150). Rejoice with mini trays of oysters (B180) you can bring to a simmer on the grill, and crispy pumpkin and carrot slices that roast beautifully. But unlike so many Japanese restaurants with shouting staff and inebriated salarymen, you’ll either have to bring your own boisterous group of friends here or just enjoy the calm. Finally, a note on prices: the sets offer good value (from B800), but be warned that ordering a free-flow of side dishes can rack up a hefty bill.