The owners of Toro were such huge fans of Thai chef Tawil Pidotung they went ahead and built this restaurant especially for him. Having eaten here, we can now understand why. The classic blond wood interior references Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market, with baskets and boxes sourced directly from the famous fish market.

The menu is pretty focused on sushi and maki, with only a few side dishes and some don (rice with toppings) options. The quality of the fish here isn’t the best we’ve had in Bangkok but options like the o-toro (fatty tuna belly, B450) are still very satisfying, with the owners claiming to have their own special supplier who delivers particularly fresh fish from Japan. The uni sushi (urchin roe, B400) is especially amazing—very fresh, rich and no hint of fishy aroma. The rice, though a little dwarfed by the big slices of the fish, has a well-balanced taste and a good body without being too dense.

Apart from the sushi, the rolls get a big thumbs up as well. Take the So Salmon (salmon roll topped with torched salmon belly and crispy tempura flour, B320), which is lovely. The dish comes with a flavorful sauce but it doesn’t overpower the taste of the fish and it is all well finished by the crunchy texture of the tempura batter. This light touch is also evident in the simple mixed tempura (B450) which features a fresh, moist shrimp coated in a lovely light batter of tempura flour.

Those who like to experiment will also appreciate their new deal that lets you order a half plate portion and therefore try out a range of different dishes. Service is very impressive as well. The staff know their menus and their products; or just pull up a stool at the sushi counter and chat away with the chef.

Overall, Toro is not going to redefine Japanese cuisine in Bangkok but at least it gives us a solid option for a decent sushi place in Thonglor with the promise of good service, good produce and good value for money. Corkage charge B350.