It’s getting hard to tell Bangkok’s many Japanese fusion restaurants apart, all of them trying to outdo each other by incorporating new ingredients while keeping enough classics on the menu to please everyone. Teien, like many, is a bit hit-and-miss.

Tucked away on the 4/F, it offers a light, wood-dominated atmosphere typical of such restaurants, with the kitchen sitting in the middle of the dining room. The menu blends classics and popular fusion options with elaborate presentation courtesy of Japanese Chef Akira Khemavuthanon.

Once seated, you’ll be served a bowl of clear kombu soup, which is comforting and soothing, and a small bowl of appetizers. The last time we visited, it was a mini-stew with salmon belly, carrot and mushroom. Though the layer of fat floating on the surface was not particularly appealing, the dish is simple and tasty.

As for the rolls, the recommendations include the Wagyu roll (B990) stuffed with foie gras. There’s no overpowering rich and creamy mayo sauce, here, just a slightly sad big chunk of foie gras. However, it’s redeemed somewhat by the chef getting creative with crunchy vegetables in the roll and the simple see ew dum (black soy sauce) that goes well with the fresh wasabi on top.

The engawa sakura butera roll (B450 for six), however, is delightful. It comes with layers of light purple rice cooked with cherry blossoms and blow-torched engawa. The greasiness of the fatty fish is balanced out by the citrus ponzu sauce served in the form of jelly that offers a smooth texture, while the chopped scallion and ginger add a slight herbal touch.

If you visit, skip the sashimi (salmon, akami and hamachi, B400 for small) and dessert, which are just average, and make sure to bring some friends if you want to try a variety of rolls as portions are big. Teien is up there when it comes to consistently tasty rolls made with quality ingredients, but to be on par with Maki Maki or Isao, we think they have to work a bit harder.