Tacos & Salsa stakes a claim as the most authentic Mexican restaurant in Bangkok. There’s the setting, of course: a renovated shophouse deep down Sukhumvit Soi 18 that’s decked out with burnt-orange and yellow walls, bright tablecloths and comical Frida Kahlo-style paintings by the owner. (A sombrero-wearing cactus also greets you out front.) Then there are dishes that, despite Bangkok’s recent fascination with all things Mexican, remain hard to find locally, such as the delicious Mexican ceviche (B200), a salad of raw seafood cooked only in lime juice, and tamales (B250), meat wrapped in corn dough and steamed inside dry corn husks. 

The new owner took over the restaurant a couple of years ago boasting of flavors true to those found in her hometown of Mexico City, and we agree, this is some of the homeliest Mexican in town. The aforementioned tamales, with a delicious side of rice and refried beans, make up for their slight lack of seasoning with a moist, almost cake-like texture—classic comfort food. For guaranteed bite, we recommend ordering the set of five salsas, a steal at B40, which covers the classic tomatoes and onions to the considerably hotter salsa verde and garlic chili and oil (similar to our namprikpao).

The menu features all the basics, too. The guacamole (B120), an important marker of any taqueria, is chunky and tangy, while the nachos (B125/250) come with a generous heaping of beans, cheese and chunky jalapenos. The latter were served a little cold on our last visit, but we’ve taken a real shine to Tacos & Salsa’s rough edges. The burritos (B180/220), for instance, won’t win any awards for presentation, but fillings like the chicken tinga (shredded chicken stewed with onion and tomato) and the fiery chili con carne offer more well-rounded flavors than most of the city’s patchier offerings. We’re partial to ordering our burrito wet (an additional B60) to get it smothered in sour cream and cheese.

With its low-key charm, tasty grub and relaxed service, Tacos & Salsa is suited to a quick in-and-out meal or a long night with friends. On that count, the margaritas (glass or jar, B170/B800), available in flavors like passion fruit and peach, are darn potent. If that doesn’t finish you off, dive into the Margochela (a bowl of margarita served with an upturned bottle of Corona, B700), recommended for three or four drinkers or one very big night out.