The Buzz: Former L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon chef Jay Sangsingkaew is behind Ekamai’s new French and globally-inspired restaurant. After taking a short break following the sudden closing of the famed restaurant, chef Jay has returned with an ex-Robuchon crew in tow, and they’re dropping some show-stopping fare.

The decor: Tucked away down a small alley off Ekamai, Stage (pronounced like “stahj”) is noticeable only by its tiny blue neon chef’s hat. The interior, designed by red-hot Paradigm Shift (Crimson Room, Canvas), boasts deep hues of midnight blue, simple yet refined cream banquettes and walls lined in delicate floral wallpaper. The dining room can accommodate up to 30 people, but the place to be is at the semi-private chef’s table that overlooks the pristine open kitchen.

The food: If French technique is what you’re after, this is the place for you. The saucier, which in French kitchens is considered the most vital part of the brigade, is a powerful weapon here, but each chef brings their own skills to the table, using local and global ingredients to personalize the menu. There are three choices for tasting menus: four-course (B1,900), six-course (B2,900) and the “Stage Experience” at eight courses (B3,900). The chefs will change the menu every two months according to the seasons. At the moment, the menus feature signatures like otoro sashimi with sesame paste and buttermilk curd, melt-in-your-mouth lobster served with a decadent beurre blanc and charred sucrine (cos lettuce), and the super random yet fun and delicious pork sausage hot dog, which is topped with fresh black truffle shavings and served with pickled winter melon and Stage’s own secret sauce. Expect some firepower when it comes to desserts. Pastry chef Ja Limpichart, who studied in Paris and apprenticed at Le Quartier du Pain, oversees playful takes on nostalgic classics like baba au rhum, but the pièce de résistance might be the dessert trolley, which offers all sorts of sweet treats.

The drinks: Restaurant manager and sommelier Louis Pronritt was previously the sommelier at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon and recently head wine sommelier at Bangkok Marriot Marquis Queen’s Park. He has curated an interesting list of classics, as well as natural and biodynamic wines. Start with the Cremant de Jura (B400), a crisp brut from France, then move on to the Trebbiano (B350), a white wine from Veneto, Italy, that pairs perfectly with small bites and snacks, or go for the Blaufrankisch (B450), an organic, food-friendly red from Burgenland, Austria. Cocktails and whiskeys are also offered tableside.

Why we’d go back: This all-star lineup of young, French-trained chefs is serving up excellent food at unbeatable prices. Expect them to put their stamp on the culinary landscape in 2020.