Taking over the former spot belonging to Carl’s Jr. in Silom salaryman haven Soi Thaniya, this izakaya chain with over 60 branches worldwide specializes in mountains of golden tebasaki, or Nagoya-style fried chicken wings.

The decor remains fairly nondescript, with the addition of sake bottles, some paper screen walls and banners bearing the chain’s mascot, a cheery half-man, half-chicken, failing to add too much character. But there’s plenty of fun to be had, here. Aside from the star attraction, the menu packs all sorts of comfort dishes like yakisoba, sashimi and stir-fries, though arguably the real emphasis is on booze.

While the bar is a pretty solitary space, the low-ceilinged room at the back gets boisterous with a mix of Japanese expats and Thai office workers pounding back ice-cold draft Asahi (from B119) or making the most of the all-you-can-drink beer, sake and shochu deal (B499/90 minutes).

There are two types of deep-fried wings on offer—the original maboroshino tebasaki (B130/5 pieces) and the kuro tebasaki (B95/3 pieces)—both of which look fried to the point of no return. That’s misleading and the flavors are extremely addictive. The former are peppery and salty with just a hint of spiciness, while the latter taste like they’ve been doused in Worcestershire sauce. For us, the crispy, crunchy skin is so delicious it outweighs the slightly dry meat.

Elsewhere portions are kept small, in keeping with the drinking atmosphere. The zuri kara negi sio ponzu (fried chicken knuckles in ponzu sauce, B130) are another moreish snack, benefiting from a liberal squeeze of lime, while the Yamachan miso kyu-ri (cucumber with miso soup, B105) is a refreshingly simple side of greens. In fact, we found most dishes delicious, whether the omelet-like nira tama itame (egg with garlic chives, B140) or zesty buta pon (stir-fried pork in a sour sauce, B170).

Again, portions are quite tiny, but priced accordingly, so you navigate the great big menu without too much fear of a crazy bill—or you just order another pile of wings. Sekai No Yamachan is no place for a civilized sit-down dinner—there are a ton of those in this neighborhood—but if it’s fast food and beer-fueled cheer you want, it hits the spot.

Note: There’s another branch at The Manor on Sukhumvit Soi 39. 

This review took place in July 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.