Located on the 37th floor of the Pullman Hotel G, Scarlett is an elegant—and delicious—wine bistro surrounded by glass on all sides, offering sweeping views of lower Silom and the river. Despite its good looks, the vibe remains fairly casual, thanks to the big central bar and chalkboard menus. Navigating the vast space between tables are numerous, highly-attentive waiters and an observant manager. (There’s also a pleasant terrace with couch seating for those who enjoy the great outdoors.) The food fits on one big carte yet covers very affordable pasta dishes, nibbles (from ham to cheese platters, B250-690) and bistro classics, all the way up to more elevated signature dishes by consulting chef Manuel Martinez of the two-Michelin-star Le Relais Louis XII, in Paris. The wine list goes on forever, again at some of the best prices in town, with over a dozen wines by the glass (B150-270). Specials rotate constantly, bringing in exciting imports like cured hams from all over Europe or seasonal oysters. And we’re partial to the music at conversation-friendly levels which (fittingly) sounds like French electro compilations of the early 2000s. Portions are generous and Scarlett excels at serving up big, bold flavors. The delicious lobster bisque (B290) is so dense, textured and hearty you could call it a fish soup for meat lovers. On that note, the beef cheek (B640) comes in a decadently thick wine sauce reduction: it’s tender, it’s packed with umami, and it’s good value. The beef tartar (B780), prepared tableside, is equally satisfying. Excessively salty on one visit, it’s usually done just right, and we recommend just asking the waiter to toss in all the condiments it comes with, from capers and raw egg to brandy. These dishes work well because they don’t particularly require a light hand, though. But the pricey veal blanquette’s (B1,150) sauce just feels too milky, the meat a bit chewy and the vegetables a tad bland. Similarly, while the rich chocolate flavors of the fondant (B280) is all you expect it to be, the slightly more complex apple tart (B250) isn’t quite there: the crust is too compact, lacking the lovely flaky texture we’d except from good puff pastry. In short, Scarlett is more at ease with its wagyu beef stew pasta dish (B410) than with its fancier options. So come for a big bold cabernet sauvignon, enjoy the view, and spoil yourself with some really well-executed bistro food. Corkage B1,000.