The buzz: Chef Napol “Joe”Jantraget, acclaimed for the local Samlor (Top Tables 2023 No. 14), has teamed up with Chef Jirapat “Sept” Praphotjanaporn, the current head chef at Joe’s contemporary restaurant Nawa, to launch Kwann, a brand new project filled with Thai fine dining firewood delectables.

The vibe: In the recently opened Nysa Hotel, the restaurant escapes from the party streets of Sukhumvit soi 11 and gives off a cozy yet elevated feel. Upon entering, you're greeted with amber walls and warm, dim lighting like you’re inches away from the grill. An open kitchen gives diners a front row seat to the fiery action and the main area holds up to 40 guests. The chic spot also offers an intimate dining room for more private gatherings.

The food: We tried out the Chef’s 5 course menu B3,300. Since the ingredients are mostly sourced from local producers across the regions, the menu is ever-evolving depending on the seasonal ingredients at hand.

Photo: Oysters / BK Magazine

For the first amuse bouche, the single bite includes fresh Phetchaburi oysters. The ocean notes are tempered by the creamy coconut milk which was smoked and topped with caviar and Thai chili paste. The flavor profile of the latter reminds us of the shrimp flakes you catch on sweet sticky rice desserts. The result is a plump and buttery base wrapped in a rich blanket of sweet and savory smokiness and an added herbal zestiness from the finger lime.

Photo: Miang kham / BK Magazine

Another amuse bouche is the Thai-style miang kham. It is traditionally served with an assortment of nuts and veggies wrapped in hot Piper Sarmentosum (often mistaken with betel leaves). But at Kwann, ginger, red onions, and mackerel are ground into a smooth paste, reducing its intensity and leaving a delicate version of miang kham with extra crunchiness from the toasted coconut tart shell.

Photo: Prawn Crudo  / BK Magazine

On the apps, Kwann offers crudo white prawns with avocado green mango vinaigrette and a side of fried taro chips. The prawns are thinly sliced and lightly torched for crunch. You’ll notice a smokiness wafting off the refreshing salad. This comes from marinating the prawns in its charred shells and fat. Once you bite into the raw mango, an unexpected pocket of tangy flavor bursts. 

Photo: Thai Wagyu beef tartare / BK Magazine

The Thai Wagyu Beef Tartare with their jasmine rice charcoal crackers (B720) features diced tenderloin from Nong Khai that’s tender but slightly chewy. It subverts the gaminess with traditional herbs, leaning towards a mild zesty yum flavor. There’s also richness coming from the smoked egg yolk and caviar. This dish can make fans out of raw meat skeptics.

Photo: Namprik ka-La / BK Magazine

Multiple mains are served at the same time to reflect the Thai-style sharing experience. We picked Jasmine rice grown on the hills of Udon Thani. The grains are similar to Japanese rice but it’s reminiscent of the texture of sticky rice with a hint of sweetness. 

Photo: Roasted Fire Fish / BK Magazine

The giant trevally is roasted to enhance the aromatic firewood flavors while maintaining a slight undercooked freshness. The crispy golden skin adds an extra texture while the side pla-style salad incorporates watermelon juice for a rich, refreshing experience. 

It’s one of the milder tasting mains compared with the namprik ka-la or the grilled leeks drizzled with thick homemade oyster sauce that took two-three days to make as the kitchen crew diligently combines several cooking techniques like drying, baking, and stir frying to achieve the luxuriously thick texture.

Photo: Short ribs with massaman curry / BK Magazine

The smoked short ribs are coated in the umami massaman curry. Instead of leading with a sour or spicy taste, the soup at the bottom is more balanced and plays off the bouncy meat. The sweetness on the skin and crunchy garlic flakes breaks up the tingling sensation left by the spices.

Photo: Corn & Coconut / BK Magazine

If dessert were a bucket of popcorn, it’d be the kind that gets finished before the movie starts. The buttery Corn & Coconut vanilla ice cream feels a bit heavy and almost caramel-like at first, but the sheet of airy meringue mixed with toasted coconut bits lifts the entire experience.

The drinks: Carrying on the smoke play, the drinks incorporate subtle fire elements: a wine list taken from grapes grown in volcanic soil, ginger beer kombucha, and smoky cocktails. 

Why we’d come back: Above the fiery concept is the intention to have fun and experiment with varying ingredients. What you have on the first visit, might not be there in the next, so explore these familiar Thai delicacies with a unique twist. 

Nysa Hotel, 73/7-8, Soi Sukhumvit 13,080 076 4370, Open Tues-Sun 6-11pm.