Formerly "Sam's Fish and Chips.

Sometimes you go to a restaurant and the food is almost an irrelevance. Maybe it’s the service, the entertainment or the décor, but another aspect of your dining experience makes you almost forget what you ate. That’s almost the case with Sam’s, for the simple fact that everything about a visit to this small eatery is unique, if not surreal. It starts before you’ve even sat down. Tucked down Soi Phipat 2, the rooftop spot is accessed via a slightly precarious metal fire escape. Once upstairs you find a small overgrown space packed with garden furniture and lots of greenery. Tere you’ll be greeted by the effusive and affable Sam, who’ll usher you to a seat before introducing you to any of his band of friends who happen to be in. Last time, this happened to be a sixty-year-old Filipino who proceeded to serenade us with various Elvis numbers and Sam’s next door neighbor, a soprano. You’ve probably gathered that this is not your ordinary restaurant. In fact, it’s more like popping around to your slightly eccentric uncle’s house for dinner, so don’t expect much privacy while eating. Despite all of this, and in some ways because of it, we’ll go back. It helps that the food is surprisingly good. The mixed salad (B69) is crisp and comes with a homemade dressing; the garlic bread is tasty, and there are a good range of Thai dishes all priced at under B100. We’re also happy to report that Sam’s fish and chips are some of the best in Bangkok. With a choice of John Dory or tilapia you get two generous fillets of breadcrumb-coated fresh fish. Unlike many places, the breadcrumb batter here is wonderfully light and crunchy and the fish moist and meaty without ever being greasy. It’s a shame the chips are not a little thicker cut but they’re certainly passable and the fish is so good that they are quickly forgiven. Sam, who does all the cooking himself, in his spotless white coat, clearly uses good quality oil and is deservedly proud of his results. His fish and the eclectic atmosphere mean a visit to Sam’s is a pretty unique experience; even if it’s also downright odd in the nicest possible way.