Thailand’s suarn aharn could be described as our answer to beer gardens. O-Yua’s views of Rama 7 Bridge over the Chao Praya lend a festive touch to your family gathering, there’s plenty of outdoor seating, and the smallest serving of draft Singha you can order is a pitcher.

 

Don’t expect cocktails or glazed ribs, though. This is Thai dining pre-”Wine I Love You,” when giant bubbling pots of tom yum (B170/240) and a plate of barbequed shrimp (B750/400) was all the fun we needed on a Saturday night. We like O-Yua’s down-to-earth vibe, the classic menu, the retro bric-a-brac decor (some banquettes were literally taken from Pizza Company, Colosseum-printed partitions and all), the friendly owner who goes around handing lucky draw coupons, and the mix of generations.

 

We just wish all that low-key appeal came with properly executed Thai food. The stir-fried chayote leaves is a good example of what’s wrong. The smokiness that should come from proper wok technique is completely absent, the sauce’s taste industrial, and the garlic too sparse.

 

If you can get smokey fry-ups at fancy spots like Soul Food (Thonglor) or Hot Rod (Ekkamai), then you’d think a popular spot in the ‘burbs would get it right. The produce is fresh—we actually saw the giant baskets of live prawns getting delivered—but there’s a feeling the kitchen is on auto-pilot. Simple dishes like gab glaem or barbequed seafood therefore end up outshining curries, soups and stir-fries. 

 

The crunchy somtam with fresh crab (B240), the dried shrimp with fresh peppercorn (B140) and the bloody cockles (B140) all get a pass, but you’ll still need to leave your inner food critic at home. Prices are reasonable, so bring lots of friends, order a bottle of JW Red (B950 for 750ml, mixers B30, ice B30/60) and enjoy the view. At least the bill will feel as retro as your evening. Corkage B200

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This review took place in August 2016 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.