Don’t be fooled by the European looks of Mother May I’s white-and-navy glass conservatory, which surrounds a 40-year-old home in the middle of a lush lawn. The kitchen here focuses strictly on traditional Thai cooking, as taken from the family recipes of Thaninthorn Chantrawan, aka Chef Noom of the TV show Iron Chef, who designed the menu.

Noom last made his stamp with the high-concept menu at Osha, where classic Thai recipes met with molecular cooking techniques. But don’t expect fancy things here. The thick, picture-heavy menu offers sophisticated Thai comfort delicacies at an affordable price—and the results are surprisingly enjoyable.

The appetizer of fried chicken wings with chili and salt (B115) is truly addictive thanks to crispy skins and plenty of garlic, while the stir-fried cha-om (climbing wattle) with clear vermicelli and prawns (B165) comes with springy noodles and leaves.

Some of the signature dishes are near perfect, such as the kai ku fu (B120), which elevates a perfectly-cooked minced pork omelette with flying fish roe (though it could do with more seasoning). The flavorful chicken massaman with durian (B220) offers well-stewed, tender chicken meat paired with sweet durian flesh that holds its structure. We just wish the creamy curry were a bit thicker.

When playing around with premium ingredients like in the wagyu beef pad yee rah (stir-fry with tree basil, B235), results are also excellent thanks to concentrated flavor and tender meat. It’s just a shame that the intensity of spices overpowers the quality beef.

Make sure you also stay for their desserts, the best of which is a sweet-and-sour sorbet (B120) topped with the traditional components of a miang kham (shallot, ginger, lime, roasted coconut). Wrapped in wild betel leaves, the sorbet explodes with tangy flavor before mixing with the delicious crunch of the miang kham.

Despite it’s fancy looks, Mother May I is one of the better Thai restaurants in Thonglor-Ekkamai—an inner-city escape that shuns the tourist atmosphere and delivers great food.  Corkage B500

This review took place in June 2017 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.