The restaurant at Intercontinental Hotel Group’s recently opened boutique property has looked past the tourist Thai food norm to create somewhere that might actually register on local radars. Metro on Wireless sits in a light, inviting space on the hotel’s second story, highlighted by a beautiful parquet floor, huge windows and open kitchen. Some of the menu’s range of regional Thai favorites has also been created in conjunction with chef Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club (#26, Top Tables 2015).

This being the hotel’s only restaurant, there is also the usual all-day “international” staples, but that’s really not where the heart of the menu lies. Dinner starts with a complimentary—and commendably fiery—naam prik pao (chili jam) that makes for a reassuring sign that flavors here have not been pacified to meet foreign palates. And the rest of the food also delivers. The crabmeat kanom-jeen (B250) is a noticeable highlight, featuring a crabmeat-filled broth whose creamy coconut flavor masks a heavy undercurrent of chili. In contrast, the roasted duck red curry (B370) is milder, yet still boasts a well-balanced, full flavor. The duck itself is plentiful, moist and well-cooked. Less successful is the scallop and crabmeat wing bean salad on special (B290), not for the salad itself, which tastes rich and moreish without being overly sweet, but for the rather sad Hokkaido scallops and absence of much crabmeat.

But in general, there’s really not much to count against Metro on Wireless’s food. It’s greater problem might be the more charismatic Thai restaurants to have opened on Wireless Road recently. Just one set of traffic lights away is chef Thitid Tassanakajohn’s Baan, which for prices slightly below those at Metro serves a charmingly down-to-earth menu in an environment that’s mature and polished. Even Osha, the flamboyant Thai fine-dining restaurant which opened at the end of last year, offers lunch deals at almost exactly the same prices, starting from B290. In Metro’s favor is an anytime buy-one-get-one-free deal on Wolf Blass Yellow Label Riesling and shiraz (both B350/glass; B1,700/bottle) and quality cocktails courtesy of the downstairs bar, 22 Steps, but there’s still really no question where we’d rather be dining.

This review took place in September 2015 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.