Lower Sathorn’s Suan Plu Road has long been known as a street food and budget dining alcove, and it’s buzzing right now. In 2017 alone, the slender street has welcomed no fewer than two new property developments and five new restaurants, the biggest opening by far being Loulou Forks & Glasses.

Parked just off the main road close to a cluster of mid-to-high range condominiums, Loulou bets all its chips on a more refined French-Mediterranean cuisine and atmosphere that’s a dime-a-dozen in Thonglor, but seldom seen in these parts. The restaurant effortlessly supports an easygoing, after-work vibe thanks to its breezy front terrace and secluded back garden that beg for long evenings sipping through a globe-spanning wine list (from B170/glass).

Inside the glasshouse-like main dining area is a pleasant mix of local artwork (much of it coming from noted Isaan artist Maitree Siriboon), clean wooden furniture and mellow pop-dance tunes that feels suitably uptown. Besides the uber-fancy (and, frankly, out of place) Japanese restaurant Kom-Ba-Wa further up the road, Loulou is the only place in Suan Plu touting ingredients like 150-day-aged angus beef (B2,500/kg) or Normandy oysters (B450/6). The restaurant also boasts a respectable slate of local produce, like cheese from Chiang Mai, Royal Project vegetables and a rotating selection of market fish.

The freshness of these ingredients really shines in dishes like the creamy stracciatella salad (B440) with velvety burrata cheese, crisp fresh tomatoes and just the right tangy accent from a reduced balsamic vinaigrette—simple, but a knockout. Same with the tiger prawns in the linguini pasta (B540), fresh, juicy and just enough bounce to the bite. The dedication to simple, fresh ingredients is admirable, and very much in the spirit of Mediterranean food.

We just wish there weren’t as many cooking foul-ups as on our last visit. The badly undercooked Australian striploin (B550, ordered medium rare), aged 100-120 days, was still melt-in-your mouth delicious, but squeamish customers would riot at the sight of all that raw meat. On the reverse end, the organic half-chicken (B780) from Chiang Mai was overcooked and very dry in parts, although some delicious and peppery cumin sauce patched that right up.

Mistakes aside, Loulou has a lot of things going for it: an unbeatable setting for the area, quality produce and a wine cellar worthy of special occasions. That said, it’s a cut below the four-star status that’s evaded every Suan Plu venue so far. Corkage B600

This review took place in December 2017 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here.