BANGKOK RESTAURANT

Kutai

Suan Phlu's hidden seafood shack and wine bar. 

The buzz: Thai-French cuisine meets beach-bohemian vibes at Suan Phlu’s new restaurant and bar.

The decor: It’s island bar without the beach. The bric-a-brac within emcompases vintage drink ads, rainbow buntings, faux palms—what elsewhere might be tacky here creates an easygoing charm, an effect of the old Thai house setting. Take a breezy (the work of many fans) outdoor table, or sit in the air-conditioned, candle-lit dining room. Upstairs is a lounge with low-table and beanbag seating that’s perfect for a digestif.

The food: Kutai is Maori for mussels, but doubles as Thai slang for “I’m Thai,” a call that’s echoed by the seafood-heavy menu with Thai undercurrents. Start on a half dozen juicy Fines de Claire No 3 oysters, which are B85 per half shell except on “oyster party” Tuesdays, when the price drops the more you order (six for B75/piece, nine at B70/piece, etc.). Mussels get their own page; have them glazed in butter and white wine (French style), submerged in cream or steamed with Belgium beer–every style coming with options of fries, rice or salad (B390). Meat eaters fear not, there’s duck breast with orange sauce (B530) among other turf options.

The drinks: You’ll find seaside standards like cuba libres (B230) and mai tais (B230), but pop open a bottle of Fashion Prosecco Brut (B1,090) if you’re getting the oysters. Meanwhile the mussels pair excellently with a bottle of Grillo (B1,290) or Muscadet (B1,250).

Why we’d go back: Affordable oysters, butter-glazed mussels and a crisp white wine—that’s our favorite way to wind down during the week. How about you? Kankanok Wichiantanon

Venue Details
Address: Kutai, 178/1 Suanphlu Soi 1, Bangkok, Thailand
Phone: 063-541-9242
Website: www.kutairestaurant.com
Area: Sathorn
Cuisine: Seafood
Open since: September, 2017
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 4:30-11pm
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