One of the Chinese institutions in the Yaowarat neighborhood, Kam Lung is similar to its neighbors, with less focus on the décor and more emphasis on the food. Whipping up Hong Kong cuisine, which is similar to the Cantonese you find in many restaurants in the area, the thick menu is packed with the hallmarks of Chinese cuisine—all the stir-fried, soup, deep-fried and steamed dishes you’d expect. The fish swimming in tanks at the front of the restaurant are a highlight (including the fish maw), as is the ostrich. The ingredients used here are of good quality, while the flavors are well-balanced but subtle—what some youths might call bland, but which those with a more developed palate would appreciate. The kra poh pla nam daeng (fish maw in gravy soup, B380), for instance, packs a nice rounded flavor thanks to some good, rich stock and fish maw that is fresh, crispy, and well-cooked. On the stir-fry side, we enjoy the tua kaek pad nam liab (stir-fried green beans with Chinese olives, B200) that comes with little slices of still crunchy green beans and a lovely aroma of chili. The dish is flavorful and the nam liab adds a very welcome tang. The moo sab pla kem (minced pork with salted fish, B150) might look like a dish from the kid’s menu, but the bold flavors should ensure it’s a hit with all ages. We particularly like that the salted fish doesn’t overpower the overall taste—the mark of a well-executed dish. The pla kao nueng see-ew (steamed grouper with soy sauce, B1,100 for a kilo), though solid, is not quite so successful: while there’s no hint of a fishy smell and the texture is as it should be, there’s also a distinct lack of aroma. Still, no single dish at Kam Lung has let us down. But since you’re on Yaowarat Road, where there are plenty of places that serve up delicious food, Kam Lung makes for an authentic but not entirely inspiring dining option. No corkage charge.