Rama 9’s cozy Japanese spot Hotei has recently opened a new branch on Asoke.

Mercifully leaving its predecessor’s hanging model ships and murals of dolphins bursting through portholes behind, the interiors here are decidedly more modish, with airy blond wood, ferns in upturned pots hanging from the ceiling and sunken seating booths.

While at dinnertime unagi don will set you back B330 and a six-piece premium sushi set B1,450, lunch sets (11am-3pm) like the tori karaage (fried chicken) start at a very affordable B150, saba teriyaki at B200 and buta don (pork rice bowl) at B220.