Hong Teong Long is a master of Chinese food. Also known as Khom Daeng, it’s set in the kind of shophouse you’ve seen a thousand times before. But step inside and you’ll be amazed, and quickly addicted, to the well-balanced dishes that burst with just the right saltiness, sweetness and spiciness. The menu is packed with Cantonese favorites, namely dumplings, mien (Chinese noodles) and stir-fried selections. The salapao (steamed buns, B100 for 10) are fried on the base, giving them a pleasantly crunchy texture to go with the fluffy top. The dish is a perfect example of how important it is for Chinese food to be served promptly before everything changes. Here, they do it very well—the tasty pork stuffing is tender on arrival with a hint of soupiness and a sprinkling of sesame. The golden base is well fried and truly elevates the simple dish—so it’s no surprise when you see the many takeaway orders of uncooked salapao being carted out of the shop. A main like the pla boo (steamed goby with chili, B350) comes in a light but rich-in-flavor broth, swimming with sweet bell peppers and fermented garlic. The fish is extremely fresh, too. Even the very-affordable B60 noodles come in highly refined flavors, while the beef is top-notch—silky and scrumptious. Don’t miss the yam (salads, B90) here, either. Both the jellyfish with sesame oil and the mushroom with garlic options are fantastically refreshing. Hong Teong Long really excels on delivering well-rounded flavors—nothing is too salty, as you find in many Chinese restaurants, and they don’t go heavy on the MSG. The tiny hole-in-the-wall, which is open until the ungodly hour of 4am, is packed with wonderful Shanghai and Szechuan style dishes that will make sure Chinese food ranks very high on your to-eat list once more. No corkage charge.