Situated in the best spot of the Asiatique riverside arcade, it’s easy to see why this industrial-loft-like space easily attracts swarms of diners with its warm and cheerful atmosphere. We don’t think the packed tables come down to the food, though. Sadly, Happy Fish doesn’t break the cliché about restaurants at tourist destinations: below-average food at over-inflated prices.

The menu is that typically Thai hodgepodge of localized “inter” favorites. Obviously, we don’t expect a Hawaiian pizza (B280) to taste like it’s from Napoli, but the sweet sauce and soft, oily crust is really pushing it. Even the sauerkraut is sweet here­­­—as if the German pork knuckle (B580) it’s served with needed that on top of its syrupy apple-flavored dipping sauce. Too bad, as the meat itself is suitably crispy and fatty. More unabashed fusion comes in the shape of the spaghetti khee mao (spicy seafood spaghetti with Thai herbs, B320), which somehow manages to be spicy and bland at the same time. (Of course, the pasta is overcooked and basking in the most pedestrian oil).

If you know your way around the menu, there a few solid finds, though. We like the fish and chips (B280), and the kor moo yang (grilled pork neck with sticky rice, B320), which is pretty salty but makes a fine companion to a beer and some sticky rice. We recommend the chocolate fondant (B250), too, which avoids the sugar overload found in some of the other dishes.

We do love the atmosphere, as well, especially during this winter period and the decent live bands. There’s just no place that compares to the riverfront when you want to sip a cold one (Hoegaarden, Stella Artois, Budweiser, Singha, Heineken). There’s also a short wine list, from B1,000 for a bottle and B200 for a glass. Just don’t come here if food is your number one priority.