When we head back to the old-school Union Mall, it’s not for the cheap clothes, but for this little place tucked away in the underground level. Han Jao Nua is run by a Northerner who claims to always be on-site to guarantee the quality of her food. Her khao soi gai (B65) has a nicely balanced flavor, augmented by some very tender chicken. Other recommendations include the variety of curries in clay pots lining the counter. Try the gaeng hang lay (B120) or gaeng pakkard jor (spicy Lanna-style Chinese cabbage soup with kapi, B90)—you’ll lick your bowl clean.