Once a favorite for Chinese and seafood thanks to its expertise in Hong Kong-style cuisine, the lack of diners at Hai Ba Wang—even on a weekend—suggests the glory days are behind it. An unassuming façade gives way to plenty of Chinese clichés, from round, dark wooden tables to upright grandfather clocks and Chinese caligraphy wallpaper found both downstairs and in the upstairs private rooms.

But despite the absence of customers, we find the food satisfactory. The steamed seabass with spicy lime soup (B600) is super fresh, the meat white and springy, and the soup perfectly tangy. The stir-fried baby clams with chili paste (B180/B350) are also well executed, in a piquant sauce that cuts the right balance between salty and sweet. The chili fried squid (B180/B350) is delicately fried in a light coating of flour and perfectly seasoned, as is the stir-fried eggplant with soybeans and minced pork (B150/B280)—simple but delicious.

What disappoints? You can barely detect the meat in the stir-fried crabmeat with curry powder (B300), and what there is has a mushy texture, while the sauce is also a bit sugary. Overpriced for the quantity served. The barbecue duck (B180/B350) is also uninspiring, perhaps just a little better than what you’d get at MK.

The service is kept running thanks to the diligence of the Burmese waitresses, who take orders while the Thai staff sit at the counter looking bored. There’s not much to criticize about Hai Ba Wang’s food, but the overall experience, from the atmosphere in the room to the level of service, leaves a lot to be desired.