This review took place in July 2019 and is based on a visit to the restaurant without the restaurant's knowledge. For more on BK's review policy, click here. 

If you’re looking to experience some real southern Indian cooking, then this spot specializing in—you guessed it—dosa is for you. Hidden down a small Sukhumvit Soi 11 side-street, this unembellished bistro feels like a secret, but it’s not.

Having run for 17 years, the restaurant is crowded with mostly Indian customers at just about any time of the day. Its wood-heavy interior is unflashy, the only refinement coming in the form of simple white tablecloths—it’s definitely not cozy, but it’s comfortable. The long menu is a repertory of vegetarian south Indian staples: delicately light and fluffy idlis (steamed rice cakes, B100); crunchy-edged vadas (Indian savoury doughnuts made from black lentils, B110) with a pleasingly chewy interior; and satisfyingly crisp and addictive dosa (B120)—south Indian pancakes made with fermented rice and lentils, stuffed with various fillings.

Go for the plain dosa (B120) and you’ll be treated to sides of delicious coconut chutney and peppery sambar (lentil-based vegetable stew), though the many filled options will tempt you in. We found the chunky potato mash in the masala dosa (B165) a tad mushy, though it still delivered on flavor, whereas the palak masala option (B175) sees the pancake nicely coated inside with a spinach paste and topped with a more satisfying potato mash.

Likewise, the rich paneer option (B195) is satisfyingly spice-laden. We strongly recommend trying the onion rava dosa (B120), a crispy, net-like crepe made from semolina, rice flour and chopped onions, whose delicate, brittle texture is perfect to snack on. For a wonderful hit of pepper and cumin, don’t miss the aloo jeera (stir-fried potatoes with onion, tomato and spices), with a mellow side of malai kofta (cottage cheese and potato dumplings in creamy tomato gravy, B220) to balance out the spice.

For dessert, the gulaab jamun is as cloyingly sweet as you’d expect, but with a good hint of cardamom, though our favorite is the ras malai (B160), indulgent milky cottage dumplings soaked in saffron and cardamom-scented milk.

Though the atmosphere is a little discomforting—what’s with the staring?—just about everything we ate was decent and there’s a certain authenticity and simplicity in the food, service and ambience. If comforting Indian food is what you’re after, Dosa King does just the trick.