Bangkok’s current fetish for Chinese-themed bars reaches its zenith at this latest spot for the Soi Nana neighborhood. Neon Chinese letters and a do-nothing approach to shop-house restoration give it the requisite look of old Hong Kong cool, complete with open frontage that spills onto the Yoawarat streets.

The guys from The Never Ending Summer and Junker and Bar created their signature cocktails. Opium (B288) sees a classic negroni spiked with ginseng and herbal liquor, while Five Rivers B288) infuses the flavors of Chinese five spice into rum, Drambuie (whiskey liqueur) and Fernet Blanca (a bitter herbal liqueur). For something lighter, try Forbidden Gold (mashed plum with peach liquor, lime and tsingtao beer, B288).

One of the owners, Tikhamporn Chuenkittivoravat, was trained as a chef at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Here she serves traditional Chinese comfort snacks: duck wontons served with chili sesame oil (B218) or jian bing (Chinese crepe stuffed with tofu cracker, grounded pork, chili and hoisin sauce, B248).

And note that if you've got friend's passing through town, the space doubles as a hotel, with a few rooms on the third and fourth floors.

With Pijiu and FooJohn also both now open for business, the second coming of Chinatown bars is definitely in full swing.