There is an odd magic at work at this family-run European-American cafe: the atmosphere is cheerily inviting, even before the arrival of the menu. Meticulous care is visible in dishes like the bolognese pizza, whose crust has the texture and flavor of naturally leavened bread right from the wood-fired oven, and the burger with its juicy, char-grilled patty. The long list of beers and whiskey also features prices that prompt a double-take.