Aoi’s Silom branch is something of an institution. Opened in 1988, it’s one of the granddaddies of the Japanese dining scene in Bangkok. Branches followed in Emporium and Paragon, but we don’t like them nearly as much. The original, though, while fairly basic, is one of the most authentic Japanese experiences in Bangkok.

The sashimi, in particular, is a big draw: massive chunks of incredibly fresh seafood bursting with flavor. The flagship set, at B3,500, comes with three slabs of fatty tuna, a small fistful of sea urchin, three plump scallops, a hefty raw prawn and much more. It really is some of the best sashimi in town and, if you know your stuff, the price is more than warranted.

It’s too bad the cooked food isn’t quite as mind blowing. The sansai (B350) promises wild vegetables, but the steamed carrots and mushrooms just aren’t all that exciting. The tamago with spicy cod roe (B300) doesn’t have the amazing, fluffy, cake-like texture that this steamed egg dish can sometimes achieve. It’s more akin to an omelet instead. From the miso soup to the peppery grilled beef tongue (B300), it is all above average, definitely, but not exactly weep-worthy either.

As a package, Aoi remains hard to beat, though: the service is impeccable, the décor of exposed beams and rustic plaster, while slightly looking its age, is homey and authentic, the menu is utterly devoid of concessions to trends or bizarre fusion, and the kaiseki sets (B2,500-4,500) are appropriately elaborate. (Kaiseki is the traditional form of Japanese fine dining, with over a dozen little dishes, from sashimi to small salads and grilled beef.)

Aoi is not going to set off any foodie earthquakes for sure— it’s a bit stuffy, dated, and expensive—but it also remains a very solid choice for classic, delicious Japanese cuisine.