The buzz: Bangkok may be saturated with ramen joints, but when it comes to those piloted by Shin Inoue, the mastermind behind the instant hit No Name Noodle, your ramen experience will be tougher—way tougher. Just think of him like the Jay Fai of ramen. But there’s good news: His ramen spin-off at J Avenue Thonglor, the Shoyu Stand, is finally out of the box, much more accessible in both price and availability without compromising his unique take on ramen. 

 

The vibe: Frequent visitors to Japan may have seen lots of yatai, those laid-back street vendors with plastic curtains enclosing the seating areas with around five tables. The design concept takes inspiration from the chef’s mother who suggested this seating arrangement would be ideal for a hotter climate, but there’s air-con inside, which means you don’t have to worry.  

 

The food: As the name suggests, the star here is the shoyu ramen, a crowd pleaser for both noodle novices and ramen experts. His current signature menu plays on three thermal senses: hot, cold, and lukewarm. The hot ramen Jidori Shoyu Noodles (B250) see a chicken broth made from local poultry that simmers the hirauchi (flat-shaped) noodles. The noodles are conspicuously thinner than those he used at No Name Noodle, but the flavor is still on point. The cold Hiyashi Niboshi Shoyu Noodles “Shiro” (B270) are perfect to take the edge off the heat with the frozen dashi and refreshingly tangy yuzu shoyu sauce—a nod to the chilled ramen served at his original spot. The main attraction, and perhaps the venue’s signature, is his Cappuccino Noodles (B280). It’s truly a sight to behold with the frothy awa-kei (bubble), filling the broth with rich, creamy truffle taste. When combined with the added toppings (B70)—soft-boiled egg, chashu pork, and bamboo shoots—it’s full of Japanese umami and well-balanced flavors. 

 

Why we’d come back: Although Inoue may not be stationed here at the Shoyu Stand, his protege, who has been with him from the very first days, will take the reins here. The prices are moderately fair, considering that most of the ramen venues in Bangkok start at B200, and with Inoue’s craftiness and the quality, we’d—if we’re lucky enough to secure our seat—stop by again. The staff also shared the tip that if you keep refreshing the online reservation website for every 10 min, there’s a greater chance you will be able to book. By Porpor Leelasestaporn.